D'ORSAY Dandy or Not. G.A. Eau de Parfum

What it smells like

D'ORSAY Dandy or Not. G.A. is a woody-leathery Eau de Parfum with a bright, spiced opening. Cardamom and grapefruit start it: the cardamom is cool, green and aromatic, the grapefruit tart and a little bitter. Together they give a citrus opening with more structure than a standard cologne, tangy rather than sweet.

The heart introduces black tea and orange blossom. Black tea is dry, slightly smoky and tannic, and it pulls the fragrance towards something contemplative, while orange blossom adds a soft floral warmth that keeps it from turning severe. This pairing is the hinge of the composition, moving it from fresh to serious.

The base is a leather accord with patchouli. The leather is supple and smooth rather than tarry, and patchouli lends earthy depth and a touch of darkness. The overall arc, from bright citrus to warm leather, is what the house means by duality: casual on the surface, composed underneath. It wears close after the first hour and lasts well into the day.

Who made it

Dandy or Not. G.A. was composed by Sidonie Lancesseur, a French perfumer with the Robertet Group. She trained at ISIPCA, joined Robertet in 2004 and became a perfumer two years later under Michel Almairac. Her creations include By Kilian Straight to Heaven, Frapin 1270 and Olfactive Studio Lumière Blanche, and she is known for a fondness for woody materials such as patchouli and vetiver.

Released in 2022, the fragrance is presented as casual love, a crossroads between tangy nonchalance and calm elegance. The initials G.A. belong to the person who inspired it, in keeping with the house's naming.

Who it’s for

This suits people who like citrus openings but want a leather or woody drydown rather than a fresh one. If you enjoy tea notes, soft leathers or spiced citrus fragrances, it is an easy recommendation. It is unisex and leans slightly classical without feeling old-fashioned.

It is also a practical choice for someone who wants one bottle to move from day to evening, since the fragrance genuinely changes character as it dries down.

When to wear it

Dandy or Not works across the year and is especially good in spring and autumn. The bright opening suits daytime and the office, while the leather base makes it comfortable for dinners and evenings out.

In hot weather, the grapefruit and cardamom keep it wearable; in cold weather, the leather and patchouli give it enough warmth. It is one of the more versatile fragrances in the D'ORSAY range.

About the house

D'ORSAY is a Parisian perfume house whose story begins in 1830 with Count Alfred d'Orsay, a dandy and artist who, as the house tells it, composed a fragrance in tribute to his love for Marguerite, Countess of Blessington. It is remembered as one of the first perfumes worn by women and men alike, and the modern house has made that its founding principle: every D'ORSAY scent is unisex. The current collection names each Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette after a person, adding their initials, so the range reads as a set of portraits rather than products. Fragrances are made in France and sold in 50 ml and 90 ml bottles, and the house's Paris boutique is at 44 rue du Bac. Dandy or Not. G.A. Eau de Parfum is available at Redolia Perfumery in 50 ml and 90 ml bottles.