d'Annam Pomelo Oolong Eau de Parfum

What it smells like

Pomelo Oolong opens with the bright, almost honeyed citrus of pomelo—that Southeast Asian grapefruit cousin with its distinctive floral sweetness—paired immediately with the dry, slightly mineral character of oolong tea. There's no sharpness here; instead, the pomelo settles into a warm, rounded quality, while the tea adds a subtle astringency that keeps the composition grounded and contemplative rather than purely cheerful.

As the fragrance develops, osmanthus emerges in the heart—that apricot-tinged floral that carries both fruit and flower simultaneously. In Vietnamese and Chinese culture, osmanthus is steeped in tea, so this note feels like a natural continuation of the oolong's story. The osmanthus softens the citrus without obscuring it, creating a moment of quiet elegance where tea, fruit and flower exist in gentle conversation.

The base arrives with white musk and porcelain—two notes that work in concert to create something deliberately understated. The musk is clean and skin-like rather than animalic, whilst porcelain adds an almost mineral, slightly cool quality that suggests refinement and restraint. Together, they anchor the composition with a subtle, lingering warmth that feels more like a memory than a statement.

This is a fragrance that tastes as much as it smells. It captures that specific moment of sitting with a cup of oolong tea, a pomelo segment on the side, the fruit's oils catching the light. There's a quietness to it—a deliberate pacing that rewards attention rather than demanding it.

Who made it

Pomelo Oolong is the work of Anh Ngo, an IFF perfumer and the principal nose behind d'Annam's Vietnam-inspired collection. Ngo has built a reputation for translating specific Asian foods, drinks and memories into precise, evocative compositions that feel true-to-life rather than romanticised. Her approach is rooted in specificity: she doesn't create abstract interpretations of "Asia" or "tea" or "citrus," but rather captures the exact olfactory character of pomelo as it exists in Southeast Asia, of oolong as it's prepared and consumed there, of osmanthus as it appears in both culinary and cultural contexts.

This precision is what distinguishes her work. Rather than relying on conventional fragrance tropes, Ngo builds her compositions from genuine sensory memory and cultural knowledge, translating them through the language of perfumery with remarkable clarity. Pomelo Oolong is a clear example of this approach: it doesn't smell like a generic "tea fragrance" or a standard citrus composition, but rather like a specific, lived experience rendered in scent.

Who it's for

Pomelo Oolong suits anyone drawn to subtlety and restraint—those who prefer fragrances that unfold gradually rather than announce themselves loudly. It appeals to people with an appreciation for tea culture, whether they're regular drinkers or simply drawn to the ritual and calm it represents. The fragrance also speaks to anyone with a connection to East or Southeast Asian food and drink, or those simply curious about olfactory storytelling that goes beyond surface-level interpretation.

This is equally a fragrance for those who find conventional fresh fragrances too sharp or one-dimensional. The pomelo provides brightness, but the oolong tea and osmanthus prevent any sense of harshness. It's sophisticated without being austere, warm without being heavy—a composition that works across seasons and occasions because it never overreaches.

When to wear it

Pomelo Oolong is at its best during daylight hours, particularly in warmer months when its citrus and tea notes feel most natural and refreshing. It's an ideal morning fragrance—something to wear whilst settling into the day with a cup of tea, or before a meeting that requires calm focus. The composition's restraint makes it office-appropriate without feeling corporate or impersonal.

It also works beautifully in late afternoon, that quiet hour when the day begins to wind down. There's something about its pacing and its subtle base that mirrors that time of day—a moment for reflection rather than activity. It's not a fragrance for evening events or occasions demanding presence; instead, it's for moments of genuine solitude or intimate company, where being heard isn't the point.

About the house

d'Annam was founded by Nick Hoang, whose name means "from Annam"—the historical name for Vietnam. The house creates fragrances as olfactory love letters to East and Southeast Asian food, culture and memory: mooncakes, matcha soft serve, bubble tea, mango sticky rice, white rice—dishes and drinks and rituals rendered as wearable scent. Rather than abstract or decorative interpretations, d'Annam's fragrances are grounded in specificity and genuine cultural connection.

The Vietnam-inspired collection is composed chiefly by Anh Ngo, with additional work by perfumer Luis Hou. Each fragrance is presented as an eau de parfum in minimalist rounded clear-glass bottles, paired with illustrated art boxes that reflect the collection's visual identity. Pomelo Oolong is offered here at Redolia Perfumery as a full 50ml bottle—a considered size for a fragrance designed to be lived with rather than merely sampled.