{"title":"Vanina Muracciole","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVanina Muracciole\u003c\/strong\u003e is a Paris-based independent perfumer of Corsican-Italian origin. She trained first in chemistry and then at ISIPCA in Versailles, began her career at MANE in Milan and Grasse, and went on to work alongside the master perfumer at the fashion house Jean Patou. In 2012 she went independent, setting up in Saint-Germain-des-Près, and she cites the Corsican maquis — the dense, aromatic scrubland of the island — as the landscape she keeps returning to.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eShe composes for niche and confidential houses rather than for designer labels: Jeroboam (Unue), Le Galion (Cuir), Comptoir Sud Pacifique (Vanille Café), Lubin (Attique), Fragonard (Ma Rose) and Masque Milano, alongside her work for Jovoy Paris.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor Jovoy she has written the two extremes of the house. Fire at Will (2021) is its sweetest and densest fragrance, a brown-sugar vanilla held up by vetiver so it never collapses into dessert. Aqua Memorabilis (2024) is the opposite — a clementine-led citrus built on ambergris, cedar and vetiver so that it actually lasts, which most citrus fragrances do not. One perfumer, one house, and about as wide a brief as a publisher can hand out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBrowse the fragrances composed by Vanina Muracciole and available at Redolia Perfumery below.\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"jovoy-paris-fire-at-will","title":"Jovoy Paris Fire at Will Eau de Parfum","description":"\u003ch2\u003eWhat it smells like\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJovoy Paris Fire at Will is an amber-vanilla eau de parfum, and it is one of the most single-minded vanillas in niche perfumery: there is no citrus opening, no aromatic throat-clearing, just vanilla from the first second. What keeps it from being flat is mimosa, which sits alongside the vanilla in the top and brings a powdery, faintly honeyed yellow-floral lift. Mimosa is an underused material and it does something specific here — it makes the vanilla smell like a flower rather than a flavour.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe heart deepens into brown sugar over more vanilla. This is where the fragrance earns its reputation: brown sugar is darker and more molasses-like than plain caramel, with a faint burnt edge, and against vanilla it produces something closer to a warm kitchen than a dessert. It is thick, but it never turns syrupy, because there is no fruit and no chocolate propping it up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe base is musk, amber and vetiver, and the vetiver is the smartest decision in the composition. A dry, rooty, slightly smoky material underneath all that sweetness is what stops Fire at Will from collapsing into a body-spray vanilla. Musk brings it close to the skin and amber keeps it warm. Expect six to eight hours with strong projection for the first two, then a soft sweet-woody skin scent that survives the night.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWho made it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFire at Will was composed by \u003cstrong\u003eVanina Muracciole\u003c\/strong\u003e and released in 2021. She also wrote Aqua Memorabilis for the house, and the two make a useful pair — one is the sweetest thing Jovoy publishes, the other the driest and most citric, both by the same hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJovoy works like a publishing house: François Hénin, the founder and artistic director, sets a brief and commissions an independent perfumer to answer it. That is why the catalogue sounds like several different authors rather than one studio.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWho it's for\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for people who want a serious vanilla. If you already own the well-known gourmand vanillas and find them either too edible or too thin, Fire at Will is the denser, more grown-up version — the brown sugar gives it body and the vetiver gives it a floor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt is unisex and reads slightly feminine in wear simply because vanilla usually does, but there is nothing in the pyramid that belongs to one wearer. If you dislike sweet fragrances, skip this one entirely; there is no phase where it is not sweet. If you want a signature comfort scent for cold weather, it is an excellent candidate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen to wear it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFire at Will belongs to autumn and winter, and mostly to the evening. Cold air suits sweet ambers — the sugar reads as warmth rather than weight, and the projection carries well in low temperatures. It works for dinners, evenings out, dates and cold-weather days when you want something enveloping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn summer it becomes heavy quickly, so treat warm-weather wear as a single-spray proposition applied low on the body. Two sprays is plenty in any season; this is a fragrance with real presence and over-application is the usual reason people find it cloying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eAbout the house\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJovoy Paris has two beginnings. The first was in 1923, when Blanche Arvoy founded Jovoy as a Parisian perfume and cosmetics maison; the name then went quiet for more than eighty years. The second came when François Hénin — who spent years chasing raw materials in the forests of Vietnam before a spell in Grasse — revived it, a relaunch the house dates to 2010. Jovoy operates as a publisher rather than a laboratory, commissioning independent noses such as Cécile Zarokian, Jacques Flori, Véronique Nyberg and Vanina Muracciole, and it also runs Jovoy Parfums Rares at 4 rue de Castiglione, a step from the Place Vendôme, which calls itself the embassy of rare perfumes. Fire at Will Eau de Parfum is available at Redolia Perfumery as a full 75 ml bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"Jovoy Paris","offers":[{"title":"2.5 oz (75 ml)","offer_id":54459843936572,"sku":"3760156771496","price":210.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0987\/7078\/0476\/files\/jovoy-paris-fire-at-will-white-1.jpg?v=1790431854"},{"product_id":"jovoy-paris-aqua-memorabilis","title":"Jovoy Paris Aqua Memorabilis Eau de Parfum","description":"\u003ch2\u003eWhat it smells like\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJovoy Paris Aqua Memorabilis is a citrus eau de parfum, and it is a serious one — not a cologne that disappears by lunchtime, but a citrus built on a woody-ambery base so that it actually stays. It opens on clementine, and the choice matters: clementine is rounder and sweeter than lemon, less bitter than grapefruit, with a soft peel quality that reads as generous rather than sharp. Grapefruit adds the bitter lift, pink berries a crackle of rosy spice, and bitter orange a green, slightly medicinal edge underneath.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe heart returns to clementine — an unusual move, repeating the signature note rather than moving away from it — with violet and black pepper around it. Violet brings a powdery, faintly sweet floralcy that softens the citrus without muddying it, and black pepper keeps things dry. This is the section that stops Aqua Memorabilis from being a simple fruit; it becomes something closer to a citrus perfume than a citrus accord.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe base is where the engineering shows: cedarwood, grey amber, musk, vetiver and sandalwood. Grey amber — ambergris — is the key, supplying a salty, skin-like radiance that makes the whole composition seem to hover. Cedar and vetiver keep it dry, sandalwood adds cream, musk brings it close. Expect five to seven hours, which for a citrus-led fragrance is genuinely good, with the brightest projection in the first hour.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWho made it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAqua Memorabilis was composed by \u003cstrong\u003eVanina Muracciole\u003c\/strong\u003e and released in 2024. Her note for it dwells on the delicacy and roundness of Italian clementine, which is exactly what the fragrance delivers. She also wrote Fire at Will for Jovoy — the house's sweetest, densest vanilla — and the pair demonstrate how wide a brief the house gives its perfumers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJovoy's own site credits her; the major fragrance databases list no perfumer for this release, so the house is the only source for the attribution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWho it's for\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is for people who love citrus fragrances and are tired of them vanishing. If you wear Mediterranean colognes and eau-de-cologne styles but want something with a real base under the fruit, Aqua Memorabilis is the upgrade. It is also a good choice for anyone who finds most ambergris-driven fragrances too heavy — here the ambergris is a support, not the subject.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt is unisex and reads clean and well-groomed rather than gendered. If you want sweetness, depth or a dramatic drydown, this is not that. If you want to smell immaculate on a hot day, it is one of the better options at the price.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhen to wear it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAqua Memorabilis is a spring and summer fragrance and a daytime one. Heat is its ally — citrus and pepper lift off warm skin and the ambergris base becomes more radiant rather than heavier. It suits the office, everyday wear, daytime outings and warm evenings, and it is clean enough for close quarters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a citrus structure it rewards a generous hand: four sprays in the morning is not excessive, and it is worth reapplying after lunch if you want the top notes back. Note that this is the 100 ml bottle of the previous Jovoy presentation — clear glass with the vertical black label and brushed cap — rather than the newer 75 ml flacon.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eAbout the house\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJovoy Paris has two beginnings. The first was in 1923, when Blanche Arvoy founded Jovoy as a Parisian perfume and cosmetics maison; the name then went quiet for more than eighty years. The second came when François Hénin — who spent years chasing raw materials in the forests of Vietnam before a spell in Grasse — revived it, a relaunch the house dates to 2010. Jovoy operates as a publisher rather than a laboratory, commissioning independent noses such as Cécile Zarokian, Jacques Flori, Véronique Nyberg and Vanina Muracciole, and it also runs Jovoy Parfums Rares at 4 rue de Castiglione, a step from the Place Vendôme, which calls itself the embassy of rare perfumes. Aqua Memorabilis Eau de Parfum is available at Redolia Perfumery as a full 100 ml bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"Jovoy Paris","offers":[{"title":"3.4 oz (100 ml)","offer_id":54459844624700,"sku":"3760156771274","price":215.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0987\/7078\/0476\/files\/jovoy-paris-aqua-memorabilis-white-1.jpg?v=1790432031"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0987\/7078\/0476\/collections\/perfumer-vanina-muracciole.png?v=1790357763","url":"https:\/\/redolia.com\/collections\/vanina-muracciole.oembed","provider":"Redolia Perfumery","version":"1.0","type":"link"}